You’ve changed the batteries in your smoke alarms and locked up the cleaning supplies, but don’t sit just down yet. Throughout your home there may be other not-so-obvious dangers lurking. Whether they’re environmental or just some bad habits you don’t even know you have, we can help. In this post we talk about eleven ways your made in heavan home sweet home can actually be a dangerous homefont. Being aware of such potential risks and hazard can help you plan ahead, prevent extensive repair costs and mitigate against future problems and hazards.

As a side note, I particularly like the city of Richmond Virginia’s Home Checklist and the Elder Home Hazards Checklists as well. But, please read on for our list.

Uncontrolled Electrical Currents

If old Ben Franklin only knew the careless way some of us deal with electricity these days, he would’ve kept his discovery to himself. Whether it’s overwhelming a frayed extension cord with holiday lights, or exposed outlets like the one taped to a conductive metal support in this flood-prone basement, home electrocutions account for around 1,000 deaths each year in the U.S alone. At the least this homeowner could have used a GFCI receptacle so any power surge would switch it off. But if you don’t know what you’re doing, for Pete’s sake, call up a licensed electrician.

Deadly Odorless Gas

We all go to sleep at night, but each year 170 of us never wake up thanks to this silent killer. The culprit: carbon monoxide poisoning caused by malfunctioning fuel burning appliances such as furnaces, ranges, water and room heaters. One way to protect yourself is to make sure you vent the exhaust of these appliances properly. That means having the pipes angle up, not down, as these folks have done—hot air rises, you know—and checking that vents are free of cracks and gaps. And most importantly: install a standard carbon monoxide detector. They only cost 20 bucks and are the best way to protect your family.

Decomposing Decks

Be warned! If the brackets and fasteners holding your deck together are as corroded as this one, your backyard paradise is in serious danger of turning into a pile of tinder sticks. Water and weather can take a toll on metal fasteners and joist hangers. Even treated decking lumber can react negatively with them, leading to corrosion and—worst-case scenario—failure.

Between 2000 and 2008, about 30 people were killed in deck collapses. So it’s important to inspect yours regularly, and replace corroded metal hardware with stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners and joist hangers. They’re more rust-resistant and neither will react negatively with the copper in treated woods. Doing so will give you peace of mind the next time your plus-sized pals come over for a few cold ones on the deck.

Menacing Methane

A build up of sewer gases in your home doesn’t just create a foul odor reminiscent of a hot-summer-day cow pasture. Inhaling the methane that is contained in it (itself an odorless gas) can also lead to headaches, difficulty concentrating, and heart palpitations. What’s worse: if enough methane accumulates in your home, the simple flicker of a pilot light can cause it to ignite. If you smell sewage, check your bathroom vent pipe (or “stink pipe”) and make sure it doesn’t have any holes or loose connections. And no, using duct tape and a terrycloth towel to seal it, like this homeowner did, is not the way to go.

Water Torture

Most mental health experts, including Dr. Phil, would be alarmed to hear you’ve just mounted a TV in your bathtub. In its purest form, water is a poor conductor of electricity. It’s when you factor in the salts, metals and other impurities found in most drinking water, that its conductive properties become more worrisome. Let’s say this homeowner grew tired of Dr. Phil’s ranting and changed the channel with a wet hand. The electricity in the TV could easily jump right through the water on his fingertips, and into his body. Keep all electrical appliances, TVs, radios, et al, away from your tub, or any other place water is often present.

Death by Dryer Lint?

Sure, people might snicker if they hear you’ve been taken out by something as seemingly benign as dryer lint. But, seriously; due to lint’s high flammability, it can happen. Too much lint build-up inside your dyer can lead to a good old-fashioned dryer fire. And too much lint outside this appliance can do the same thing, especially if it’s piling up next to, say, a water heater with a pilot light, like it is here. You should keep a radius of several feet around water heaters and furnaces free of combustible materials, such as paints, solvents, and, yes, dryer lint. If you notice lint build up, make sure your dryer vent pipe isn’t cracked. If it is, replace it immediately, or patch it up with some foil tape.

Killer Critters

Not only do they make even the bravest of men fall to the ground and assume the fetal position, those nasty bats in the attic can also spread rabies and, worse, contaminate the air with their foul feces, the fumes of which can lead to deadly histoplasmosis. Then there are the snakes that go hunting after them for a good meal. So what are they all doing in your attic? They found a way in—through a hole or crack in your house’s skin. If you find a gap even as small as a finger’s width, just assume something awful has taken advantage of the easy access. Then deal with it.

Chim-Chim-Cheree (of Death)

In some cases, fires are hard to prevent. In others—well you’re just asking for it. Take the homeowner who neglects to maintain his chimney on a regular basis. Doing so leads to a build up of flammable creosote, which can lead to a build up of deadly carbon monoxide in his home, and, eventually, a chimney fire, which can take down the entire house. Chimney safety is often overlooked, especially by this homeowner, who tacked on an addition while neglecting to compensate for the chimney height, which must be at least 2 feet higher than any nearby structure and 3 feet above the roof it passes through. If just one fiery spark from the fireplace makes its way up here, kaboom! Just be sure to have your chimney cleaned and inspected annually. 

Menacing Mold

That earthy smell in your house might not be your sweaty work boots. It could be mold. While all of us have mold spores in our homes, a build up can lead to respiratory problems and a substantial worsening of allergy and asthma symptoms, especially for children. In severe cases, mold can even lead to anaphylactic shock, which leaves you completely unable to breathe. It’s a no brainer that mold most often occurs in the moistest areas of our homes, such as the kitchen, an improperly vented bathroom, or a basement, like the one shown here. Check these areas for mold regularly. Once you remove the mold, figure out what the underlying cause is, and address it promptly. Trust us, it’ll make you breathe easier. 

Chemically Packed Paint Fumes

That “Spiced Butternut Yellow” paint you used to liven up the master bedroom sure looks pretty. Too bad it’s KILLING YOU WHILE YOU SLEEP with noxious fumes.

OK, maybe that’s a slight exaggeration. But, if you used a regular paint gallon full of volatile organic compounds, such as, say, benzene, it can lead to some serious headaches and respiratory issues. And, keep in mind that the EPA says many of the VOCs found in paints are suspected carcinogens ( that means they cause cancer)

Don’t take any chances. Always use no- or low-VOC paints, stains and finishes on your home improvement projects. Please make sure you store your paint with the covers securely fastened.

Give us a call at Handyman Connection of Montgomery County Marland for home saftey repair services today!  Contact us directly via phone @ 301-740-8865 or Email us.

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This has been a particularly wet year where rain and amount of flooding has exceeded many norms with the onslaught of hurricanes, tropical storms. It has been an extremely wet year. Mold can potentially cause health problems as well as damage to structures and surfaces if it is not controlled.

Mold begins growing indoors when spores come in contact with wet surfaces or substances. Once established, mold can be very difficult to remove successfully – so prevention is the key. Molds are ubiquitous in nature, and mold spores are a common component of household and workplace dust.

However, when spores are present in large quantities, it becomes a health hazard to humans, potentially causing allergic reactions and respiratory problems. Some molds also produce mycotoxins that can pose serious health risks to humans and animals. The term “toxic mold” refers to molds that produce mycotoxins, such as Stachybotrys chartarum, not to all molds. Exposure to high levels of mycotoxins can lead to neurological problems and in some cases death. Prolonged exposure, e.g. daily workplace exposure, can be particularly harmful.

Causes & growing conditions

Molds are found everywhere inside and outside, and can grow on almost any substance when moisture is present. Molds reproduce by spores, which can be carried by air currents. When these spores land on a moist surface that is suitable for life, they begin to grow. Mold is normally found indoors at levels that do not affect most healthy individuals. Because common building materials are capable of sustaining mold growth, and mold spores are ubiquitous, mold growth in an indoor environment is typically related to water or moisture indoors.

Mold growth may also be caused by incomplete drying of flooring materials such as concrete. Flooding problems, leaky roofs, building maintenance problems, or indoor plumbing problems can lead to mold growth inside homes, schools, or office buildings.

For significant mold growth to occur there must be a source of water (which could be invisible humidity), a source of food, and a substrate capable of sustaining growth. Common building materials, such as plywood, drywall, furring strips, carpets, and carpet padding are food for molds. In carpet, invisible dust and cellulose are the food sources.

After a single incident of water damage occurs in a building, molds grow inside walls and then become dormant until a subsequent incident of high humidity; this illustrates how mold can appear to be a sudden problem, long after a previous flood or water incident that did not produce such a problem. The right conditions reactivate mold.

 Studies also show that mycotoxin levels are perceptibly higher in buildings that have once had a water incident.

Spores need three things to grow into mold: Nutrients: Cellulose is a common food for spores in an indoor environment. Moisture: Moisture is required to begin the decaying process caused by the mold. Time:

Mold growth begins between 24 hours and 10 days from the provision of the growing conditions. There is no known way to date mold. Mold colonies can grow inside building structures. The main problem with the presence of mold in buildings is the inhalation of mycotoxins. Molds may produce an identifiable smell. Growth is fostered by moisture. After a flood or major leak, mycotoxin levels are higher in the building even after it has dried out. Food sources for molds in buildings include cellulose -based materials, such as wood, cardboard and the paper facing on both sides of drywall, and all other kinds of organic matter, such as soap, fabrics, and dust containing skin cells.

If a house has mold, the moisture may be from the basement or crawl space, a leaking roof, or a leak in plumbing pipes behind the walls. Insufficient ventilation can further enable moisture build-up. Visible mold colonies may form where ventilation is poorest, and on perimeter walls, because they are coolest. If there are mold problems in a house only during certain times of the year, then it is probably either too air tight, or too drafty. Mold problems occur in airtight homes more frequently in the warmer months (when humidity reaches high levels inside the house, and moisture is trapped), and occur in drafty homes more frequently in the colder months (when warm air escapes from the living area into unconditioned space, and condenses).

Moving air may prevent mold from growing since it has the same desiccating effect as lowering humidity. Keeping indoor air temperature higher than 74 °F (23 °C) also has an inhibiting effect on mold growth. Because common building materials are capable of sustaining mold growth, and mold spores are ubiquitous, mold growth in an indoor environment is typically related to an indoor water or moisture problem. Leaky roofs, building maintenance problems, or indoor plumbing problems can lead to mold growth inside homes, schools, or office buildings. Another common cause of mold growth is flooding.

Removing one of the three requirements for mold reduces or eliminates the new growth of mold. These three requirements are:

1) Moisture,

2) Food source for the mold spores (dust, dander, etc), and

3) Warmth (mold generally does not grow in cold environments).

HVAC systems can create all three requirements for significant mold growth. The A/C system creates a difference in temperature that allows/causes condensation to occur. The high rate of dusty air movement through an HVAC system may create ample sources of food sources for the mold. And finally, since the A/C system is not always running – the ability for warm conditions to exist on a regular basis allows for the final component for active mold growth. Because the HVAC system circulates air contaminated with mold spores and sometimes toxins, it is vital to prevent any three of the environments required for mold growth.

A) Highly effective return air filtration systems are available that eliminate up to 99.9% of dust accumulation (as compared to 5% elimination by typical HVAC air filters). These newer filtration systems usually require modification to existing HVAC systems to allow for the larger size of electrostatic 99.9% filters. However, thorough cleaning of the HVAC system is required before usage of high efficiency filtration systems will help. Once mold is established, the mold growth and dust accumulation must be removed.

B) Insulation of supply air ducts helps to reduce or eliminate the condensation that ultimately creates the moisture required for mold growth. This insulation should be placed externally on the air ducts, because internal insulation provides a dust capture and breeding ground for mold.

Mold Assessment

The first step in an assessment is to determine if mold is present. This is done by visually examining the premises. If mold is growing and visible this helps determine the level of remediation that is necessary. If mold is actively growing and is visibly confirmed, sampling for specific species of mold is unnecessary. This method, considered non-intrusive, will only detect visible and odor-causing molds. Sometimes more intrusive methods are needed to assess the level of mold contamination. This would include moving furniture, lifting and/or removing carpets, checking behind wallpaper or paneling, checking in ventilation duct work, opening and exposing wall cavities, etc. Careful detailed visual inspection and recognition of moldy odors should be used to find problems needing correction. Efforts should focus on areas where there are signs of liquid moisture or water vapor (humidity) or where moisture problems are suspected. The investigation goals should be to locate indoor mold growth to determine how to correct the moisture problem and remove contamination safely and effectively.

The basic goals of any mold investigation are always twofold:

1) find the locations of mold growth, and

2) determine the sources of the moisture. If these can be answered by simpler or more cost-effective methods, mold testing is probably not a wise use of resources. Sampling In general the EPA does not recommend sampling unless an occupant of the space is symptomatic.

When sampling is necessary it should be performed by a trained professional who has specific experience in designing mold-sampling protocols, sampling methods, and the interpretation of findings. Sampling should only be conducted to answer a pertinent question: examples “what is the spore concentration in the air”, or “is a particular species of fungi present in the building.”

The additional question should be asked before sampling “what action can or should a person take upon obtaining data.” The sampling and analysis should follow the recommendations of one or more of the following groups:

1. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), 

2. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH),

3. The Environment Protection Agency (EPA) and,

4. The American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA) Most importantly, when a sample is taken the proper chain of custody should be adhered to. The AIHA offers lists of accredited labs that submit to required quarterly proficiency testing. Three types of air sampling include but are not limited to: Air sampling: the most common form of sampling to assess the level of mold. Sampling of the inside and outdoor air is conducted and the results to the level of mold spores inside the premises and outside are compared. Often, air sampling will provide positive identification of the existence of non-visible mold. Surface samples: sampling the amount of mold spores deposited on indoor surfaces (swab, tape, and dust samples)

Bulk samples: the removal of materials from the contaminated area to identify and determine the concentration of mold in the sample. When sampling is conducted, all three types are recommended by the AIHA, as each sample method alone has specific limitations. For example, air samples will not provide proof a hidden source of mold. Nor would a swab sample provide the level of contamination in the air.

Though it may not be recommended, air sampling following mold remediation is usually the best way to ascertain efficacy of remediation, when conducted by a qualified third party. Remediation The goal of remediation is to remove or clean contaminated materials in a way that prevents the emission of fungi and dust contaminated with fungi from leaving a work area and entering an occupied or non-abatement area, while protecting the health of the individual(s) performing the abatement.

The first step in solving an indoor mold problem is stopping the source of moisture.

Next is to remove the mold growth.

Common remedies for small occurrences of mold include: Sunlight, Ventilation, Wall insulation, Non-porous building materials, Household cleansers.

 Significant mold growth may require professional mold remediation and removal of affected building materials.

The CDC offers remediation and clean up suggestions. And the EPA offers Additional Resources: The publication, “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buil;dings”, is available in HTML and PDF (54 pp., 5 M)  [EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001]

A conservative strategy is to discard any building materials saturated by the water intrusion or having visible mold growth. Certain contractors are capable of repairing mold damage – usually by removing the affected areas and eliminating the cause of the excess moisture. New technology also allows some mold remediation companies to fill a room with a dry fog that kills the mold and stops its growth. This fog uses a chemical that is EPA approved and does not harm or damage the physical well being of persons or animals. Improper methods for cleaning mold include exposure to high heat, dry air, sunlight (particularly UV light), ozone, and application of fungicides. These methods may render the mold non-viable, however, the mold and its by-products can still elicit negative health effects. As noted in following sections, the only proper way to clean mold is to use detergent solutions that physically remove mold. Many commercially available detergents marketed for mold clean-up also include an anti-fungal agent.

MOLD PREVENTION

As stated earlier, mold cannot grow in the absence of moisture. Moisture can take the form of leaks, spills, condensation, and humidity, so controlling sources of moisture is the most important step in mold prevention. Here are some ways to avoid creating conditions in which mold will thrive: Look for signs of leaks in supply and waste lines for bathrooms, kitchens, utility sinks, and laundry areas. Have any leaks fixed and dry the area thoroughly. Check the condition of grout and tile on shower walls, floors, and around bathtubs. Repair damaged grout, and seal it to prevent mold from being absorbed. Increase ventilation to the outside by using exhaust fans, attic ventilation. Regularly empty and clean drain pans and hoses for air conditioning units and dehumidifiers. Check for roof leaks that allow water to enter attic spaces or build up under roof shingles. If possible, lower the overall humidity in the home to decrease condensation and create a less mold-friendly environment. Places that tend to stay damp, such as in bathrooms, showers, and basements may be more difficult to keep entirely free of mold but it can be minimized. Diligent cleaning, opening a window or using a ventilation fan are often enough to keep mold at bay. Alternatively, look into the possibility of applying external wall insulation.

This has the benefit of increasing the wall temperature above the dew-point, thus helps prevent internal condensation which results in mold-growth.

Give us a call at Handyman Connection of Montgomery County Marland for mold remediation and control services today!  Contact us directly via phone @ 301-740-8865 or Email us.

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Handyman Connection can transform your old bathroom into the bathroom you’ve always wanted with no effort on your end. Sit back while Handyman Connection handles the bathroom remodeling services you’ve been dreaming of. If you’re unhappy with the shower or bathtub you have at home, why not change it? Perhaps you’d like a bigger tub with Jacuzzi jets and a head rest? Maybe you would prefer if your shower had clear glass hinge doors? Whether you’re in need of simple bathroom repairs or complete bathroom remodeling services, make handyman connection your go-to contractor.

The Bathroom Vanity/Sink: Sometimes sharing a sink with your spouse, children, or roommate can be a challenge, but it’s nothing that bathroom remodeling services can’t fix. If you need your own space but don’t have your own bathroom, upgrade your bathroom vanity. Incorporating a new bathroom vanity into your bathroom will allow for multiple sinks, extra space, and the design and style you’ve been craving. There are several styles to choose from such as granite, acrylic, modern, etc. The vanity has the power to be the most compelling aspect of your bathroom so take advantage!

Lighting: When executing bathroom remodeling services, don’t forget about the lighting! The finishing touches of your new and improved bathroom can be executed through lighting installation. Whether you’re considering intimate lighting provided by a romantic chandelier, or dimmer switches which provide versatility, incorporate appropriate lighting into your brand new bathroom!

These bathroom remodeling ideas don’t have to be exhausting or stressful. Let Handyman Connection deal with the hard work while you watch the bathroom of your dreams come to life. Consult a Handyman Connection contractor for bathroom remodeling services and quotes today!  Contact us directly via phone @ 301-740-8865 or Email us

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Home repairs and remodeling is what we get excited about. Here is a list of the types of services we provide

 Handyman Connection is your single solution for that list of home maintenance that seems to grow longer every day. Whether you need something installed, built, fixed or maintained, we are your reliable and trusted partner for all your  home maintenance, home repair, renovating and remodeling needs. Your home needs expertise and we have the experts at Handyman Connection.

At Handyman Connection, our mission is the same as yours — making your home a great place to live. As North America’s original — and leading — home maintenance specialists, you can rest easy knowing your home maintenance, home repair, renovation or remodeling job is in experienced hands. We’re not just proud of our workmanship — we guarantee it

Well, all is not lost, with the help of a simple check list I have put together along with a simple measuring device which I will refer to as “DAVE’s DRAFT DETECTOR” you can become your own Energy Auditor.   Think of yourself as kind of a detective looking for “culprits” that waste energy and money.    By doing so, you can save money that’s literally “going out the window”.

Using the Interior and Exterior Data Sheets (see below), I would like for you to complete an observation on your house, apartment, or condo. Below is a handy tool you can make yourself to help locate air infiltrations. Once your observations are complete you may now develop your own set of recommendations for improving energy conservation. List alternatives whenever possible.

For assistance you may direct questions to either your local hardware store personnel or to a company such as Connection of Maryland.  (http://rockville.handymanconnection.com) 

Before you can put on your detective’s hat you will need to learn a few basic vocabulary words to help.

Radiation: The passage of energy through open space, like sunlight. During the daytime a building absorbs solar radiation, but after the sun goes down, it starts to reradiate heat to the cold outside air unless something is done to block the radiation.

• Conduction: The passage of heat through a material. Some materials, like glass and metal, conduct heat (and lose it) easily. Insulation helps to block conduction of heat. If ceilings and walls are poorly insulated, they conduct heat from the house to outside.
• Condensation: Beads of moisture that form on surfaces as warm, moist air is cooled. Moisture condensing from room air (showers, breathing, cooking, etc. provide the moisture) shows up most on the cooled areas. Wet or frozen windows are reminders of wasted heat. The cures are double or even triple glazing of windows, heavy drapes, insulating shades, or sliding panels.
• Air Infiltration: The seepage of air due to wind. Air pressure pushes cold air in through tiny openings on the windy side and draws heated air out of the opposite side of the house. Drafts occur through wallboard cracks, gaps around paneling (top, bottom, and sides), cutouts for pipes and wiring, poor seals for window sashes, badly weather-stripped doors, and loose molding at bottoms of walls.

Vocabulary Sheet: Energy Savers

• Insulation: material with high resistance (R-value) to heat flow. Some commonly used materials for home insulation are fiberglass, cellulose, rock wool, and Styrofoam. The resistance to heat flow is provided by the many small dead air spaces between the fibers or particles. Insulation comes in as variety of forms: blankets, or batts, foam, boards, or small loose pieces.
• R-value: The factor which tells how much resistance to heat flow a material has. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating efficiency of the material. R-values are commonly stated per inch of building material. R-values are additive – thicker material or a combination of materials meaning increased resistance to heat flow.R-value standards for a generic efficient house: Ceiling: R-33; Exterior Wall: R-19, Floor: R-22 (note: appropriate insulation levels [R-values] are climate dependent, i.e. an efficient house in Boston would require more insulation [higher R-values] than an efficient house in San Diego)
• Vapor barrier: A waterproof liner used to prevent passage of moisture through the building structure. Vapor barriers in walls and ceilings should be located on the heated (indoor) surface of the building. Some insulations come with a vapor barrier attached.
• Window treatments:  Applications to the interior side of windows (blinds, shades, shutters, draperies), used to save energy by keeping heat in or out.

 Dave’s Draft Detector

No Cost: Take a pencil or pen, tape a sheet of plastic wrap to it. Hold up to suspect areas where you think there may be leaks.

Cost: Fortunately there’s now a fast and affordable way to detect drafts, large and small, during winter and summer. Black & Decker recently introduced the Thermal Leak Detector, a hand-held infrared sensor that can pinpoint the exact location of air leaks. 

Supporting Article: 

  HOME ENERGY AUDIT CHECKLIST



If you had to choose a buzzword for 2010 it would be conservation.

As people react to the financial hardships they’re all of a sudden facing, they’re looking for ways to conserve money and resources. One of the easiest and most obvious places to cut back is on the amount of electricity you use in the home, starting with the lighting. Here are some ideas to get you started:

1. Replace your old incandescent light bulbs with more energy efficient ones.

The Department of Energy reports that we spend, on average, 5- to 10 percent of our electric bills on lighting in our homes. In some regions of the U.S. this amount can be as high as 25 percent where air conditioning is a modest portion of the bill. “Incandescent lamps have historically been the most frequently used in residential applications due to their low initial cost. Incandescent sources, however, are relatively inefficient in their conversion of electrical energy to visible light.

Inefficiency translates to higher operation costs. Simply replacing incandescent light bulbs with more energy efficient fluorescent or LED bulbs will make a huge difference,” says Joe Rey-Barreau, an education consultant for the American Lighting Association (ALA) and associate professor at the University of Kentucky.

In recent years, lighting manufacturers have spent a lot of time designing decorative fixtures that utilize these new, more energy-efficient bulbs. “In the past, so called ‘green’ products and lighting fixtures were not known for performing well, but we’ve invested a lot of time in creating fixtures that are both aesthetically pleasing and more energy efficient,” says Colleen Visage, senior product manager for Progress Lighting.

Similar work has been underway at Savoy House Lighting of Braselton, Ga., where they have developed an entire line of outdoor fixtures called Dark Sky that use Energy Star- rated compact florescent bulbs. “It’s extremely important with all the Congressional standards coming out that every manufacturer go in this direction,” says Kelle Hollenback, the company’s national sales manager. “Green is the wave of the future.”

2. Use light controls.

Controls allow you to save energy by either reducing operating time or light output. Photocells, which turn lights on and off in response to natural light levels, occupancy sensors which activate when a person walks into the room, vacancy sensors and motion sensors all save energy by reducing the operating time. Dimmers, current limiters, auto day lighting controls and EMCS (Energy Management Control Systems) save energy by reducing the light output and input power. Of all the energy-saving options, Irene Wang, President of Designers Fountain, Inc., in Rancho Dominguez, Calif., likes dimmer switches the best. “They offer great versatility and add richness to any room,” she says. “They allow you to leave bathroom or hallway lights dimmed for small children or overnight guests, and can also make the living room, family room or a bedroom feel more romantic and cozy.”

3. Use low voltage lighting. Installing low voltage lights in areas where minimal lighting is needed is another option to consider. “Low voltage is an efficient light source and can be installed with a dimming control,” says Jody De Vine of Sea Gull Lighting Products, Inc. “Low Voltage under cabinet lighting, for instance, delivers the right light to enhance kitchen tasks, yet when dimmed can help set a mood for entertaining.”

For more energy saving tips regarding lighting and to find a lighting showroom near you that offers energy-efficient lighting products, log on to the American Lighting Association’s Web site: www.americanlightingassoc.com or call 800-BRIGHT-IDEAS (800-274-4484).

 4. Stop Wasting Energy.

Get into the habit of turning things off when you leave a room. Not just lights, but fans, television sets, radios, etc. Not using what you don’t need will make a big impact on your energy consumption.

5. Find and eliminate “phantom loads,” items that use energy even when they are turned off. Prime examples include TV sets, DVD players, cell phone chargers and the like. Usually these devices will use a small trickle of energy either to allow them to be switched on for rapid use, or to retain memory. To curb these loads, you can attach them all too inexpensive switched power strips and turn them off for real when they’re not doing useful work for you. 6. As they break down, replace older appliances with high efficient ones that will require less energy to get the same work done. Look for appliances that have the Energy Star rating, meaning they have met rigorous government requirements regarding energy efficiency.

If you need help with your lighting needs or other any home maintenance needs that may arise, Handyman Connection is committed to providing you with dependable and skilled craftsmen, great customer service, and first class workmanship.  Just one call or click brings our expertise right to your door. Handyman Connection can help turn your “to-do” list into “done.”

Call us at 301-740-8865 or schedule an appointment online from work or your home

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Wood is vulnerable to nature’s punishments, especially rotting. This means you should always repair fencing with the most rot-resistant lumber you can afford. Pressure-treated lumber has been saturated with preservatives and lasts almost indefinitely, even with wood that has been buried in the ground. This type of wood is expensive, however. Cedar and redwood stand up well underground and are also costly. Exterior paints and stains work well above ground but are almost useless below or on parts of fences in frequent contact with water.

The components of a wood fence include vertical posts, rails that run horizontally from post to post, and screening material such as boards or pickets. Examine your fence, no matter what its type, and you can probably identify each of these elements.

Rot is a wood fence’s biggest enemy. Posts that weren’t properly treated or set in concrete typically rot away at ground level. Bottom rails and the bottoms of screening can suffer, too, especially if vegetation has been rubbing against them and trapping water. Carefully inspect fences at least once a year, paying particular attention to these areas. When you find a problem, correct it before the damage spreads. One weak post, for example, could pull down an entire fence.

The following article will tell you the steps you need to take to keep your fence in the best shape possible. It also will show you how to put up a new fence if your old one is a lost cause. Before we tell you how to build a new fence, however, we’ll focus on making repairs that are much more minor. ­

A rail that’s pulled loose from one or more of its posts may or may not be saveable/repairable, depending on how badly rotted the joint is. You may be able to mend the break with a 2×4 scrap or a couple of metal T-braces, or you may have to ­replace the entire rail. To repair a rail with a 2×4:

Step 1: Before you make repair, saturate the damaged areas and a 2×4 liberally with a wood preservative. This keeps the rot from spreading.

Step 2: To make a cleat to support the rail, make sure the rail is level, then fit a 2×4 snugly underneath. Nail the 2×4 to the post with galvanized nails. Drive a couple of nails down through the rail into the cleat.

Step 3: Carefully caulk the top and sides of the repair to keep out moisture.

Galvanized steel T-braces, available at most hardware stores and home improvement centers, are somewhat less conspicuous and often make a more lasting repair. To use T-braces in rail repair:

Step 1: Level the rail, then drill pilot holes into the post and rail.

Step 2: Secure the T-braces to the rail with galvanized screws.

Step 3: Caulk the joint.

Step 4: Paint the T-braces to match the fence.

If the entire rail needs to be replaced, dismantle that section of fence and rebuild it as explained below.

Step 1: Cut 2×4 rails to fit flat along the tops of the posts. The rails can extend from post to post, or a rail can span two sections. Measure and cut each rail individually to allow for slight variations in the fence post spacing. Butt the ends of the rails tightly together. Then, beginning at one end of the fence line, nail rails in place with two 10d galvanized common nails at the ends of each rail.

Step 2: Measure and cut the 2×4 bottom rail to fit snugly between each pair of posts. Position the rails flat between the posts, anywhere from slightly above grade level to 12 inches up. Nail the bottom rails into place with a 10d galvanized nail driven at an angle through the fence post and into the end of the rail on each side. Use a level to keep rails even.

­ Step 3: Measure and cut the fence boards. They should be of uniform length, as long as the distance from the bottom of the bottom rail to the top of the top rail, as measured at one of the posts. Starting at one end, nail boards to one side of the rails, leaving space equal to a single board width between each. Secure each board to the rails with two 8d galvanized nails at the top and two at the bottom. Nail tops first, flush with the top, then nail the bottoms, pulling or pushing the bottom rail into alignment as you go. If your fence will have boards on both sides, nail up all the boards on one side first, then nail alternate boards to other side of the rails, positioning boards to cover spaces left by boards on opposite side

To do this it is best to hire a professional, such as Handyman Connection of Montgomery County, MD with experience in making modifications.  Give us a call at (301) 740-8865 or send us an email.    Below are some tips and suggestions to get you started.

Step 1 Widen the doorway.  A wheelchair needs a door width of at least 32 inches in order to fit straight in; if the doorway is positioned in a way that the wheelchair user has to turn the chair in order to enter it (such as being located in a narrow hallway), then the door needs to be 36 inches wide.

Step 2 Modify the bathtub and shower. If the handicapped person using the bathroom is confined to a wheelchair, a roll-in shower provides the most accessible option. For a roll-in shower, the wheelchair user uses a special waterproof shower chair and rolls it directly into the shower.

This means that the shower floor must be flush with the bathroom floor and angled downward toward a drain. The walls should have support handles installed, and the water controls need to be low enough to reach from a chair and also accessible from the outside of the shower. If the handicapped person is able to stand for short periods, a regular shower can work if you install a shower seat or bench and hand rails inside. A tub with a walk-in door and a bench seat can also be useful in this situation.

Step 3 Adjust the sinks.  The height of most sinks can make them difficult to reach from a seated position.

Lower your sinks and take out the under-sink cabinets so the wheelchair user can roll up closer to the basin. Adjust the position of the faucets so they can be reached from the front of the sink, or install a pedal operation for water usage.

Step 4 Raise the toilet.   The height of a toilet can be too low for wheelchair users. Raising the toilet a few inches can make it easier to transfer from wheelchair to toilet seat. You can also use a higher toilet more easily from a specialized shower/toilet wheelchair. Next to the toilet seat, install a grab bar on the wall for support.